11.13.2009

for the future

Dear friends and family,

I have decided to switch to tumblr for aesthetic reasons. My new web address will be http://foreversavage.tumblr.com/. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Love,
Kelsey

In other news: Just got back from a weeklong holiday in Cape Town. While it was nice to have a break from the hustle & bustle of Johannesburg, the VA Waterfront in CT was eerily similar to Disney World and all of the stores were carbon copies of the Urban Outfitters catalogue (and priced similarly). In Cape Town I could really feel the 2010 World Cup buzz.

HIGHTLIGHTS: eating some nice chicken shwarma, raiding a classy afternoon tea (I drank three personal spots in two hours), exploring the city’s history by visiting EIGHT museums in the span of five days (R40 total =$.55 each), ending three of our days by taking naps in the cutest movie theatre in South Africa (R60 total=$2.74 each).

11.02.2009

time & place


Who knew that daylight saving time wasn't worldwide? The above map indicates which countries still participate in this useless practice. Here's an article with some fun DST facts.
Also-- there's going to be a movie about nation building in South Africa coming out in mid-December. Guess who is playing Mandela?




Coming soon: Update on Botswana with some graphic pictures of a slaughtered cow!

10.29.2009

It's a Mug Story

The moment shit got real was when I notice the five inch switch blade brazenly being displayed in the fist of one of the two men quickly approaching. Great. This is it. The bona fide Joburg experience. The one I had been continually warned about by my mother's friends in the comfort of coffee shops, doctor's offices and suburban dining rooms. The advice was generic, but I always nodded my head in appreciation. Walk in groups (Check). Don't go out after dark (Check). Walk with a purpose (Check). Don't wear flashy jewellery (Check). We had done everything right. Still, there we were, all of our valuable possessions replaced with bulging eyes and smirks of disbelief.

Everything happened so fast. Similarly to my many dumps off horses, I only remember flashes of "the incident". One second I'm steadily cantering along; next thing I know I see the ground about to collide with my face; now I'm laying in the dirt watching my horse roam around the ring acting confused by his newfound lack of direction. Beginning. Middle. End. At first we were joking about the number of geckos we had seen on today's journey to our favorite fair trade coffee roastery and espresso bar; then we're being assaulted by a man wearing a glow in the dark rosary and another in a Manchester United zip up; after that I was helplessly cursing the lose of my beloved Spudnick (i.e. my laptop) and cluelessly debating on how to proceed. Beginning. Middle. End.

I was a little ambivalent to post on the mugging just because I didn't want to dwell on "the incident" and because it has been taking up so much of my spare time (filing police reports and insurance claims… just kidding, I’ve got a lot more free time without constant connection to the cyberworld). Yet, when I’ve been telling colleagues about “the event”, there has been one overwhelmingly consistent response: Welcome to South Africa. I came to South Africa to genuinely experience a different lifestyle, and that’s what I’ve done, in all its glory and discouragement.



On a lighter note: Check out my second guest appearance on fee-oh-na’s weekly chocolate bar rating.

10.23.2009

Make it Rain

Remember how I used to complain about the lack of rain? Well... I guess I got what I wished for. It has been raining almost routinely every evening for the past two weeks. Today, however, it hailed.
Yup, that's a sheet of ice.


Here's a picture of one of the ice balls.

10.20.2009

p!nk



Weirdest. Music. Video. Ever.

Now imagine this playing on a flatscreen that's looming over your head while trying to enjoy a relaxing breakfast after an early morning jaunt to the airport.

10.18.2009

updated.



In the midst of a month long finals period, sprinkled with weekend traveling.

10.12.2009

The Secret Ocean

Lightning & thunder. Thunder & lightning. Lunder, for those thinking too fast.

Just turned in TWO six pagers. Are two six page papers more work than one twelve page report? I'm going to rule with a "Nay" on this one.

BREAKING NEWS: The Southern Ocean?

While in Mozambique, we were internet-less for a full week. We came up with a whole host of (basic) facts we would have to Google as soon as we got back to our computers. Sadly, the names of the world's oceans was on our list to look up (We were stuck at four, which is reasonable given the below article). Maybe that was a good thing because now I know about our newest official ocean, the Southern Ocean.


"In 2000, the International Hydrographic Organization created the fifth and newest world ocean - the Southern Ocean - from the southern portions of the Atlantic Ocean, Indian Ocean, and Pacific Ocean. The new Southern Ocean completely surrounds Antarctica.

The Southern Ocean extends from the coast of Antarctica north to 60 degrees south latitude. The Southern Ocean is now the fourth largest of the world's five oceans (after the Pacific Ocean, Atlantic Ocean, and Indian Ocean, but larger than the Arctic Ocean).

For some time, those in geographic circles have debated whether there are four or five oceans on earth.

Some consider the Arctic, Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific to be the world's four oceans. Now, those that side with the number five can add the fifth new ocean and call it the Southern Ocean or the Antarctic Ocean, thanks to the International Hydrographic Organization (IHO). The IHO has attempted to settle that debate through a year 2000 publication by declaring, naming, and demarcating the Southern Ocean." [full]

Welcome to the world, Southern Ocean!

10.10.2009

Sea of Weave



This documentary looks hilarious (even if I do think Chris Rock's voice is a little obnoxious). Although, I'm questioning its factual validity. "Human hair is India's biggest export" (1:50/2:33)-- Really?

Remember that time I walked over the Mandela Bridge to Newtown and found that the sidewalks were littered with stray strands of weave? I do!

10.07.2009

If I had a trillion Rand

Stocks and Gold Gain as Investors Shun the Dollar NYT 7/10/09

“Investors clamored to buy pretty much anything on Tuesday — as long as it was not the dollar.

A seven-month slide in the value of the dollar gained force as investors migrated to other markets and fretted over a report that crude oil could one day be priced in other currencies, hobbling the dollar’s role as a vehicle for global trade.

The dollar slipped further against major currencies, continuing a decline that has sent it tumbling 15 percent since early March. The dollar fell to $1.47 against the euro, and the Japanese yen strengthened to 88.83 for every dollar.”

NOOOO! Don’t do this to me, dollar. You’ve already slipped from 7.7 to 7.4 Rand since the start of this week (but it’s okay because I always use a 1 to 10 conversion rate in my head anyways).

On the bright side, I finally understand exchange rates! If only I had taken Econ102 after I went abroad… I’m pretty sure the only thing I remember from that class was that gangsters like the Euro because it comes in bigger denominations than the dollar, making it easier to stuff in a suitcase.



Watch Jay-Z endorse the Euro with some flashy thumbing technique. But don't worry... he's not totally dropping the dollar because he's got a giant, gold "YE$" sign flashing in the background.

9.28.2009

Show me the bunny (nom nom)

Just got back from a relaxing long weekend in Durban. Durban, located in the KwaZulu-Natal province of South Africa, is home to the largest population of Indians obviously excluding India, the most Mercedes per square mile than anywhere else in the world and the “bunny chow”.

Steps for making a Bunny Chow:

1. Hallow out a quarter, half or full loaf of bread.
2. Fill to the brim with spicy Mutton Curry.
3. Garnish with carrot strips.
4. Enjoy as (or before) the curry seeps into the bread!



‘Quarter Mutton’ from Coconut Grove Take-Away in Blue Lagoon, Durban. Best appreciated after a day of wrestling with the behemoth waves of the Indian Ocean.

Also recently enjoyed celebrating Heritage Day at the Human Rights Commission with good food, a variety of informational exhibits, traditional clothing, and live performances. I repped the Western Sahara, fully embracing my status as an expatriate.

9.23.2009

Epic Fail

NYT, you so wrong.

1. wrong president (jacob zuma)
2. wrong spelling (thabo mbeki)

and you wonder why some africans say no one cares about them...

p.s. don't worry- nytimes has been made aware of this factual error.

9.17.2009

I said "No, No, No"


These are pictures from the ongoing protest at Wits regarding the FY2010 tuition hike. Sure as hell beats the two tents on Wellesley's academic quad late last spring over the release of 40 college staff members...

The protests here involve lots of singing and dancing, two things that I do not consider my strong suits. Here is one of South Africa's most well known protest songs... sung by Amy Winehouse.



Only question left is-- why???

I guess "Rehab" is sort of a protest song...?

P.S. For those interested, here is a recent article about other protests in South Africa from the NYT.

9.14.2009

Refresh button

Here’s an excerpt from a news story that is being talked about all over South Africa:

“Johannesburg, South Africa - Sometimes 12th-century technology wins.

This week, a South African call-center business, frustrated by persistently slow Internet speeds, decided to use a carrier pigeon named Winston to transfer 4 gigabytes of data between two of its offices, just 50 miles apart. At the same time, a computer geek pushed a button on his computer to send data the old-fashioned way, through the Internet.

Winston the pigeon won. It wasn't even close.

"Winston arrived after two hours, six minutes, and 57 seconds," says Kevin Rolfe, head of the information technology department at Unlimited Group, a call-center business based in Durban. As for the Internet data transfer, he says, "when we finally stopped the computer, about 100 megs had transferred, which is about 4 percent of the total."

Officially, the Unlimited Group has not given up on the Internet, nor has it any plans to embrace the use of homing pigeons that was pioneered on the battlefield by Genghis Khan. But while the pigeon-versus-Internet stunt was a resounding success in terms of satire, it also makes a point that many businesses throughout Africa are making: Africans pay some of the highest prices for some of the least reliable Internet service in the world. And if a country like South Africa – relatively prosperous and developed – can't solve this problem, then it's going to need a lot more pigeons.”

Full article-- http://www.csmonitor.com/2009/0910/p06s12-woaf.html

Maybe this will give me a good excuse to invest in an owl-- I could even name it Hedwig (although my Hedwig wouldn't be as temperamental as Harry’s). Then again, I wouldn’t want my Hedwig to end up like one of these abandoned owls.

9.11.2009

Standing on the Shoulders of Giants

Taking a page (or a whole book?) from Edmund Burke, traditions are awesome. I mean if we didn’t have traditions, when else would I get to wander the streets begging for free candy from strangers while decked up as a pink power ranger (sadly, this actually happened), hunt for plastic eggs (filled with candy!) that a bunny scattered around our yard, or drink green beer while dressed as a leprechaun in honor of a patron saint? The answer- never.

Wellesley has some pretty bizarre traditions as well. The most well known is hoop rolling. This activity involves a gaggle of girls in their caps ‘n gowns chasing after a wooden hoop with the hopes of being the first one to cross the finish line. The prize? You get some flowers and thrown into Lake Waban (formally a hazmat site)!!!

This morning, at 6am, I was taking part in my first University of Witwatersrand tradition, the Engineering Breakfast. Here’s how it went down: We woke up bright and early, ventured over to a fenced parking lot on the other side of campus and cooked pancakes on a Bunsen burner-sized flame. Oh yeah… and all the guys were wearing suits, ties, argyle socks and silk boxers. While this tradition is just a little older than South African democracy, it has got the two key ingredients of the world’s best traditions: food and crazy costumes. Props for that.



P.S.-- Tomorrow night I’m going to a dinner party with the Swedish Prime Minister (leader of the liberal conservative Moderate Party) and some girls from the Oprah Winfrey Leadership Academy. Don’t ask how it happened, just give a honk honk to this girl.

9.06.2009

P-p-p-poker face

We left for Mozambique knowing only two things: We could stay at Fatima’s Backpackers Place on all nights in our week long journey except for Friday and that we were legally permitted to be in the country for up to 30 days. Most of us didn’t even know the simplest Portuguese phrases, which may or may not have led to a misunderstanding at the boarder (Hint: don’t take pictures of Mozambique Boarder Patrol Guards) with the threat of four to six months jail time (Eu sĂł falo inglĂŞs.). Somehow everything worked out perfectly, probably due to the good company, the kindness of strangers, our superb fact-finding/ hustling skills and sheer luck.

I feel like a picture essay would be the best way to explain our glorious adventures (Note- click on pictures to enlarge):

Part I- Bright City Lights





Part II- On the Water



See that white van (i.e. taxi bus)… we stuffed 19 people (plus luggage and a well-behaved baby) in there and drove for three hours over meandering, knee-deep sand roads. Oh man, that was an experience I will never forget.


Part III- The Diva is a Female Version of a Hustla



After we used our best poker faces to get this sweet deal at this brand spankin’ new hotel that’s named after a sinus medication, we spent the night being classy wearing our provided robes. Oh yeah, and the only other guests at the hotel were members of the Mozambican National Soccer Team and coaching squad.

Cheers to Spring Break '09- The Remix Edition!

8.24.2009

Easy Tiger

On Saturday night I went to see Dan Patlansky, a phenomenal blues guitarist, at Radium Beer Hall. Because of this event, I can now officially say I have witnessed, and to some extent even been involved in a bar fight (meh… it was more like bar tiff, but whatever). The fight ended when a woman splashed schweppe’s tonic water all over a mystery man. Unfortunately, most of the liquid involved in this dramatic gesture ended up showering all over me, a helpless bystander. This sort of reminded me of the time I was at a middle school birthday party at Rainforest CafĂ© (a.k.a. the most overwhelming place on earth) and the waiter spilt a full tray of sodas on me. The only difference in these events was that the Rainforest CafĂ© manager let me pick out some free swag (Spongebob Square Pants T-Shirt and some classy leopard leggings) to make up for my sugarcoated hair and soaking Oilily outfit, whereas I only got some leftover bread at Radium.

Sunday was even more adventurous. We went to a Lion & Rhino park about an hour outside the city. Here are some of my favorite animal pictures from the day:



Then… I got bit by a tiger (oh snap!). Here are some pictures/ video footage of the bite in action and the scar-bruise blend that now adorns my upper calf:





I think its pretty funny that this happened. As soon as people hear my American accent they usually ask “So… did you think you were going to get attacked by a lion as soon as you stepped off the plane?” To this question I usually give a polite spiel about how not all Americans are ignorant or Bush-era cowboys. Now I can just smile, laugh and explain how that actually did happen, except it was tiger that attacked me, not a lion.

After the game park, we went to a place called Carnivores where we stuffed out faces with some of the animals (ostrich, kudu and crocodile) we had been admiring all day. Mmm, mmm good.

I’ll be done with my two finals on Saturday and am then heading off to Maputo, Mozambique’s capital, with five other girls for some relaxing days on the beach (Spring Break 2009—The Remix!). We’ll be staying at a backpackers lodge called Fatima’s (you can’t have the sweet with no sour). Until I return, cheers!

P.S. Goodbye Teddy... We'll miss you.
This picture reminds me of an awkward middle school dance.

These Days

The Day of Learning (Wednesday, August 19, 2009)

Just listen to this crazy line-up of academic experiences… all within a 10-hour time span:

I rolled up to the human rights commission at 10am, said my hellos to Clifford the security guard and headed up to my office. My boss told me there was an event on the sixth floor that I should attend; I said, “okay, I’ll go”. The presentation was by Magdalena Sepulveda (she's adorable), a United Nations Independent Expert on Human Rights and Extreme (X-treme?) Poverty from Chile, who was conducting an informal discussion on poverty in South Africa with civil society organizations.

Next, I trekked back to campus where my law class was getting a guest presentation by Mark Heywood, the Director of AIDS Law Project and Treatment Action Campaign (TAC) activist. He discussed how TAC was able to use South Africa’s progressive constitution to mandate that the government make antiretrovirals more accessible, despite former President Thabo Mbeki’s AIDS denialism.

After a brief interlude that involved ice cream, it was off to Senate House for a presentation by Elinor Sisulu. Sisulu is a Zimbabwean-South African Human Rights activist and often considered to be “South Africa’s conscience”. She talked about the atmosphere of global political amnesia surrounding human rights abuses in Zimbabwe.

After this day full of knowledge I needed to decompress…

The Day of Beer (Thursday, August 20, 2009)


Kathy and I grabbed some African Sushi (pap, chicken, and chakalaka sauce) at a diner close to campus and walked over the Nelson Mandela Bridge to Newtown. We spent some time at the Museum of Africa, but left quickly since it was disappointing. The Museum is in a huge palace-like building, but most of the rooms inside are totally empty (no lie). There was an exhibit on the history of photography, with no mention of its impact on Africa (or anything related to Africa for that matter). Good thing the museum was free.

We walked across the street to SAB World of Beer. For just 25 Rand (given current exchange rates about $3.80), Kathy and I got a 90-minute tour, a glass mug, three ice-cold bottle of beer, and some munchies. The tour was incredibly high-tech and involved lots of interactive videos, even the lobby of the building reminded me of a CIA safe house (or what I imagine a CIA safe house to look like). SAB World of Beer just won the 2009 award for best tourist location in South Africa and certainly gets an A+ in my book.

South Africa In the News:
An ambiguously gendered gold medal runner, being the site of an alien invasion that inspires a government crackdown similar to apartheid policies (movie isn’t out here yet), and this interesting and accurate essay on Krueger National Park’s tourism industry.

P.S. Check out this blog post on South African chocolate bars. I was the guest taster this week (i.e. Taster Dark Horse).

8.15.2009

Fight On! Fight On! Fight On!

It’s been a rough week for the Americans in International Haus. We’ve had:
1 Emergency Trip back to the USA
3 Malfunctioning Laptops
1 Stolen Wallet
1 911-equivalent call, followed up by a week long hospital stay for pneumonia. (Don’t worry—I was as cool as a cucumber when I asked the security guard to ring an ambulance).

I guess all you can do is say “Aish”.

As of now, I’ve got M.I.A.’s (featuring Afrikan Boy) Hussel stuck in my head. She gives a shout out to Mozambique in the song—my likely “spring break” destination.


You think its tough now,
Come to africa,
Out there we are grinding like pepper,
You can catch me on the motorway,
Selling sugar water and pepper,
I rep Africa not Miami,
Hustle hustle with m.i.a.

Kathy is coming to South Africa for a few days before she heads off to Senegal. Yay!

P.S. At least the honeybees are having a good week.

8.07.2009

Free Love

On Wednesday, I attended a conference on xenophobic violence against non-nationals. The event was co-sponsored by the South African Human Rights Commission and the Center for Study of Violence and Reconciliation and was attended by a handful of local NGOs, government officials and interested citizens, most of which were foreign nationals. The day before, my first official day of work, was spent in planning meetings for the event.

At the end of the symposium, there were multiple organizations handing out complimentary pamphlets, magazines, t-shirts and stickers. As most of you know, free stuffs makes me real giddy (Dad, you taught me well). Free hand sanitizer-- sign me up! Free toothbrushes—i’ll take three! Free Costco food samples—yum, yum! In my hurry to collect as much free stuff as possible, I was not paying attention to exactly what I was grabbing.

While riding the bus home from work I decided to take a look at the loot that I had snagged. One item in particular stuck out—a sticker. Now, I’m a big sticker fan. I’ve got hundreds at home that I’ve been collecting since I was 8 years old. In middle school, at the peak of my sticker craze, I would give one of my friends about $40 every summer so she could buy me some from California (they’ve got ties to the famous Japanese sticker market). This particular sticker was unusually large (16x8 inches) and had “This is where Xenophobia belongs! 1 future” written across it. Surely they don’t mean xenophobia belongs in the future, do they? Maybe they meant to stay it belongs on a sticker/paper, but why should it even belong there? In general, I was confused about the meaning of the sticker and didn’t really want to plaster it across my wall if I wasn’t exactly sure of what it was trying to say.

Then, in a 4am stroke of brilliance, I realized I had the perfect location for my new sticker-- my trashcan. I felt around for my glasses, switched my light on and hobbled over to the bin. As you can tell by this picture, I was so excited by my realization that I didn’t even bother to properly align the sticker. In conclusion, lucid dreams rocks.




In other news—While Bill just returned from his Pyongyang mission that has “catapulted him back onto the world stage”, Hillary is in Jozi chatting it up with Zuma and Mandela. Go Billary!

Sidebar—I bought way too much yogurt last week. I’m averaging about 5 per day so I can finish them before they expire (2 more days!). If someone offered me some free yogurt, I’d have to reluctantly refuse.

8.01.2009

Error!

Here is the error sign I get (almost) every time I try to log onto the internet. Why does "the other side" dislike me so much?

On the plus side, today was the first rainy day that we've had since arriving in South Africa. As much as I love the sun, it has definitely been nice to spend the whole day in my pajamas listening to the familiar pitter-patter of rainfall (with the occasional roar of thunder).

Now back to my paper on state sovereignty and international law (a.k.a the stuff they don't teach in America).

7.25.2009

Hog Wild

Last I left you, I was about to head off onto a three-day safari. The adventure began around 6am on Saturday morning. Our tour guide picked us up at the university and we made our way to Krueger National Park. In total it was about a five-hour ride and we stopped in a cute village for lunch.

Almost immediately after dropping our baggage off in our cheetah-themed room, Katie and I were surrounded by monkeys who would peak into our hotel window and a heard of buffalo who were resting near a waterhole.

We went on a semi-unsuccessful night game drive (we say some impala- more like lamepala), but still had fun riding on the bumpy, dirt roads in the open jeep. For dinner, we gathered around a large campfire with other guests at the inn. We talked to people from England, Spain, France, Australia and some fellow Americans.

The next morning we woke up early and met up with about 6 other people who would be spending the day at Krueger with us. While at the park, we saw a variety of animals, including but not limited to: lions, zebras, rhinos, giraffes, more buffalo, elephants and warthogs. We were pretty lucky to see four of the big five, but I could tell our tour guide wanted us to spot a leopard, completing the collection, because he kept stopping every time he saw a bundle of leaves that somewhat resembled the spots of a leopard. The animals all seemed happy, at least compared to the ones at this zoo.

We moved to a different inn on the second night and stayed in another cheetah-themed room. In the morning (at 4:45am), we went on a bush walk. Our tour guide was carrying a loaded gun, just incase an animal decided to attack us. Together, we analyzed the droppings of zebra, giraffe and buffalo. Given the consistency and warmth of some of the dung, we could tell we were hot on the trail of a buffalo. In the end, we found the buffalo, but left quickly since it spotted us. We joined other hotel guests for our last meal. Once again, we met people from all over the world, even a UN peacekeeper who was working in Liberia.

Once we were back in Johannesburg, Katie and I went to a poetry reading with some people from my study abroad program. The next night I went to an art installation at the “substation” on campus and then to see the latest Harry Potter film. I know that its getting mixed reviews but, personally, I liked it. Some moments were really sappy and Ginny is a rather weak actress, but it is building up to a great final two films.

Wednesday was my birthday and I had an amazing day! My friends threw me a surprise party and the night ended with us rolling down a hill outside the rugby field like five year olds and chanting Kelly Clarkson songs. Who needs to grow up?

I’ve been studying at a coffee shop on campus, Cafè Fino, that has the most amazing breakfast smoothies (crunchy granola, yogurt, fresh fruits and a squeeze of honey all blended into a beautiful, filling creation). Although, today I went to another coffee shop, Bridge Diner, just off campus (but closer to my dorm) which might give Fino a run for its money.
I’m going to be starting my internship at the South African Human Rights Commission pretty soon. I’m getting a tour of the building on Monday and just have to wait for the paperwork to go through before I get my “authorization” card. Sounds badass.

7.23.2009

Alive! (Don't worry mum)

This post is going to be quick and dirty since I'm really tired. I'll let you know more about my weekend safari and birthday adventures once I get some sleep. In the mean time, here's an advertisement for my South African cellphone company, Vodacom.

7.17.2009

Busy as a bumble bee!



The past week has been packed with activity, which is good because then I don’t have to spend time in my barren looking room. Four white walls and a sink can get boring to look at.

Last night I went to a show at the nunnery, a small black box theater on campus. The group, the Frown Family Caravan, played “post-war, gypsy, folk” music, as it was described to me. The lead singer sounded (and acted) a lot like mellow Regina Spektor. It was nice.

The night before that, IHRE went to Amandla: Fragments of Struggle, a musical journey through the life of Nelson Mandela. I felt a little out of place because the narrator would often call out a word and the audience would chant back with a different saying. Here’s an example:
Narrator: “Amandla!” (A Zulu word meaning ‘power’)
Audience: “Awethu!” (‘To us’).
There was also a section in Afrikaans. Too bad I don’t speak Dutch.

The night before THAT, my group was on the show African Views, sort of like 60 minutes (except it’s only 20 minutes), getting interviewed about our rural stay and our opinions on human rights in South Africa. We are going to go back on the show in November to see if our opinions have changed. That is, if the show is still running, since the South African Broadcasting Company is something like 800 million Rand in debt.

And a few days before THAT, we went on a tour of Soweto, one of the poorest, most violent areas in Johannesburg. It is also the place where Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu grew up. Coincidently, they lived on the same street, the only street in the world to have two Nobel Prize winners grow up on it. After that, we went to the Apartheid Museum. The museum was nice, but the gift shop definitely needs some work. All of the shirts said “WHITES ONLY” and then Apartheid Museum in smaller print. Why would I ever buy that?

I’m going on a three day safari this weekend with a friend from Wellesley who is doing an internship at a hospital in Cape Town. We’re going to Kruger National Park. Above is a picture of Paul Kruger, the person the park is named after.

Oh yeah, I also started classes this week. They are going well.

7.12.2009

From the Graceland (Not Elvis')

PLEASE DO NOTE: This post is exceptionally long and summary oriented. This will not be the case in the future.

July 1st-2nd—Flight

All of the US international students were ready at 6a.m. on July 1st to head to JFK airport for South Africa (SA). We promptly boarded our party bus, which was fully stocked with orange juice. Some made their last goodbye calls while others tried to catch some shut eye (myself included). Boarding went smoothly except for the brief hiccup at security, which involved a toddler throwing up in the middle of a narrow line. Gross.

I sat next to a friend, Fiona, and we decided to sync up the times we watched in-flight movies. The food was decent and the flight attendants were stylishly dressed in SA’s national colors. We ended up landing almost 24 hours later to be greeted by Ayesha, the program director, and thousands of 2010 FIFA World Cup signs.

Later, I found out that Fiona was celebrating her 21st birthday during the plane ride. She decided not to tell me since she thought that would put a lot of awkward pressure on me, which is probably true. Although a group of flight attendants singing happy birthday would be pretty unforgettable.

July 2nd-3rd—Logistics

Pretty boring, typical, introduction information about Wits and Johannesburg. I got my address:

K. Savage
c/o IHRE Wits International Office
Private Bag #3
WITS 2050
(Johannesburg, South Africa)

We stayed in a hotel in downtown Joburg and I roomed with another international student from Zimbabwe. Some random things that I noticed: a. There is trash everywhere, even in rural areas b. There are cartoon images of Obama plastered on almost every street corner c. Driving on the opposite side of the road is weird, but having the toilet flusher be on the other side is even weirder d. Everyone (at least in my program) knows so much about the US its scary e. People are much more open about their personal life.

We ate an amazing meal at Gramadoela’s, which is right near the famous Market Theater. I tried worms (crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside) and ostrich/ warthog meat (both tasted just like chicken).

July 4th-July 9th- Rural South Africa

I lost all sense of time during this five-day trip because I didn’t have a cell phone, watch or other timekeeping device, plus I was still a little jetlagged. Here are some highlights:

1. Visiting a traditional healer village- The four local healers told us how they are called upon by their ancestors. First, they fall extremely ill and no western doctor can make a diagnosis. Then their ancestors send them on a “scavenger hunt”, telling them to collect animals bones and to drink the blood of a goat. After that, they have to pick their specialty and be properly trained. We did not get to see a ceremony since, naturally, they were not open the public.
2. South Africa’s Grand Canyon- Almost all national hot spots have been introduced to me in a way that compares them to the US (Examples: Durban is to SA as Miami is to the USA, Gold Reef City is to SA as Disney World is to the USA, etc). We hiked down the canyon and all of the American students were dying because of the altitude difference.
3. Bushbuckridge Orphanage- We broke up into small groups and planned activities for around 10 orphaned children, ranging from 2nd to 12th grade. Most of the kids had parents who had passed away due to HIV/AIDS and were living in children-headed households. All of the children had cell phones. Every South African has a cell phone.
4. My home stay in Rural South Africa- My group met up with Victoria, our house mother, and walked back to her home from the orphanage. She works as a home-based caretaker, meaning she visits people in the local community and tries to help them with basic medical needs since doctors are few and far between. She was recently married, so she and her husband had just started building their house. As of now, it is one small room that contains a bed and not much else. We told her to treat us as family, so she had us help lay the foundation of another room that she was working on building. We shoveled, wheelbarrowed and dug for what felt like hours, but I had no way of telling besides the setting sun. Then, we built a fire (it took a lot longer than it should have) to make some pap with a homegrown herbs (almost like solid porridge covered in a seaweed mucus). Never have I worked so hard for such a small meal. By that time, we were ready for bed. I slept on a cement floor without a pillow thinking “its just one night, you can do this”. I got really cold during the middle of the night but decided I didn’t want to cuddle up with people that I had just met less than 5 days ago. To make matters worse, the neighbors had a rooster who made himself known at 4am. In the morning we took a bucket bath and bushed our teeth in the yard. Unlike some of the other home stay houses, my group did not have a bathroom hole, so we just went in the backyard.
5. Homebased care visits- We went with Victoria on her usual rounds. The first was a family of seven orphaned children. The oldest child was 22 and the youngest was around four. They have been trying to apply for government grants, but since they have different last names they haven’t received any. I was really impressed at how close this family, although not by blood, has remained during such hard times. The second house was a man who was infected with HIV. All of his family has disowned him and his neighbors, typically a very strong support system in rural SA, refuse to help him in any way because they are afraid the disease will be transmitted to them. Overall it was a very educational but nerve-racking experience.

July 10th-July 12th- Joburg

Now that I’m back in the city (with internet!), I am getting acclimated to campus and cooking for myself. Tonight, I made a grilled cheese with bacon. So yummy.

Miss you all and hope you had a good 4th of July. I know I missed the glory of the Lexington Carnival and fireworks at the Esplanade.

P.S.-- Dad, I'm pretty sure you will be the only one to understand this entry's title.

6.30.2009

Almost There

Besides a few GPS complications, which were mostly programming errors, I made it to my orientation at Bard College safely. The campus, in middle-of-nowhere, New York, is pretty funky. It has an eclectic mix of buildings, some beautiful gardens and modern sculptures scattered around the college.

We started workshops almost immediately. On the first day, the workshop was rather boring/awkward (what first days aren’t awkward though?). We got a lecture on safety, our rural stay schedule and our role as an ambassador of America. Then, we went around the room, introduced ourselves and tried to answer some vague questions: Why are you here? What is culture? What do you hope to learn from this program? What are human rights? Finally, it was time for dinner and a stroll along the Hudson River.

Today was much more engaging. We met with a student who attended the International Human Rights Exchange (IHRE) last year and basically picked her brains for a few hours. After lunch we watched Cry Freedom (1987) and discussed some of the assigned Steve “Black is beautiful” Biko readings.

My flight to South Africa leaves bright and early tomorrow morning. In total, I’m going to be spending about 15 hours in the air. Once we land, we get a quick break and then head to Acornhoek, South Africa for a weeklong rural stay. I’ll update you when I get back.

On a random side note, I took the worst shower of my life today. The water pressure was so intense that it kept blowing the shower curtain open. The only way to stop that from happening was to use my body to shield the curtain, which kind of felt like I was getting pounded with a stick of lightening.

6.22.2009

Movin' out

I’ve decided to create a blog. Here’s why:

1. Keeping in touch-- As you may know, I will be leaving for Johannesburg, South Africa in one week and will not be back in the US until November. Besides a seven-week stint at debate camp in Ann Arbor, this is the first time I’ve ever really left home. I’m hoping that this will be a good way to update all of you (my “followers”) on my experiences abroad. My goal is to post at least once a week, hopefully with visual documentation as well!
2. It’s the cool thing to do—Two of my college friends, Amelia and Catherine, have also created blogs about their overseas journeys. I’ve really enjoyed their posts and thought I might as well jump on the bandwagon. Why not?
3. Apparently it’s an art!Wikipedia identifies five different types of blogs. My blog falls under the “Personal Blog” category, the most popular kind. Apparently, personal bloggers tend to take extreme pride in their work, regardless of their blog’s popularity. The blog represents an extension of self into cyberspace, the next frontier. For them, “blogs often become more than a way to just communicate; they become a way to reflect on life or works of art”.

Stay tuned! I’m going to miss your smiling faces.